Witch in Kitchen: Chocolate Raspberry Creme Cake

Just this last week, I completed a quarter-long internship at the zoo (go Nocturnal House!), where I already volunteer. Not only did the internship end, but I'll be leaving the country shortly and won't be volunteering for the next three months either (possibly longer if I am taken on as a zoo employee upon my return). So in thanks, I made a cake. That way, maybe they'll forget that I didn't accomplish that much in three months. "Oh yeah, she was a great intern! She brought us cake and everything!"

It's good cake, too. It's probably one of my new favorites. It has everything - rich chocolate ganache, sweet and smooth pastry cream, a burst of raspberry, on a spongey vessel of light chocolate cake. (Oh, but it's full of gluten. :-( Probably would be pretty simple to convert, though...) Next time I'll make sure to grab more than one piece.

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY CREME CAKE
bits and pieces from Baking Illustrated by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine, adapted here and there
Pastry Cream Filling
5 tbsp plus 1 tsp sugar
pinch salt
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
2 large egg yolks
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 tbsp butter
1 tsp vanilla

Chocolate Sponge Cake
6 tbsp plain cake flour (I used some combination of all-purpose and potato starch, not being one to keep over-processed, chemically bleached powdered grains in my cupboard)
3 tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tbsp Dutch cocoa powder
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp milk
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
5 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar

Chocolate Ganache
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup light agave nectar (corn syrup works, but I don't have this)
8 oz semisweet chocolate, all chopped up
1/2 tsp vanilla

Raspberry Filling and Garnish
1 1/4 cups raspberry preserves or jam (get some with not much sugar added, but never artificially sweetened - you want it to taste like raspberries, not Splenda)
12-16 fresh or frozen raspberries

1. Make the pastry cream: dissolve 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the salt, in the half-and-half over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally.

2. While your mixture is heating on the stove, whisk up the egg yolks in a separate bowl. Add the sugar and vigorously beat with your whisk until it gets creamy smooth. Add cornstarch, and keep whisking until the yolks look thick and pale.

3. Slowly drizzle the half-and-half, after it comes to a simmer, into the yolks. Make sure to whisk constantly during this process to avoid cooking and curdling the yolks. This is called tempering. Pour it all back in the saucepan and return to the heat.

4. Whisk the mixture constantly until it starts to bubble a little and it gets really thick, which shouldn't take long. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla.

5. Pour the hot pastry cream through a sieve into a medium bowl. Cover the surface directly with waxed paper to prevent a skin from forming and stick in the fridge until thoroughly chilled. This will take at least 3 hours, but it keeps fine overnight.

6. Make your cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare 2 9-inch round cake pans by greasing the sides and covering the bottom with parchment paper.

7. Sift flours, cocoa, baking powder, and salt together into a medium bowl, mix well, and make sure there are no little lumps of cocoa sitting about in the flour. Squash them if there are. Set aside.

8. Heat milk and butter over low heat until the butter melts. Remove from heat, add the vanilla, and cover to keep warm.

9. Separate three of the eggs. Place the whites in a large metal bowl, and the yolks plus the whole eggs in another large bowl. Beat the whites until foamy and broken up, and gradually add half the sugar as you continue to beat the whites. Beat to soft peaks - you know you've reached this state when you take the beaters out of the egg whites and the peaks look moist and droop over. If you beat it too much, you will have trouble folding your batter and your cake will deflate. You will be sorry.

10. Beat your yolks and whole eggs with the rest of the sugar for about 5 minutes. They should be very thick and pale, kinda like the yolks in the pastry cream. Only thicker, and paler. Pour these in with the whites.

11. Sprinkle the flour over the egg mixtures and fold from the middle down and up about a dozen times around the bowl. Make an indentation and add the milk and butter. Keep folding, very gently and carefully, until everything is more or less evenly mixed. The goal is to get the most homogenous mixture with the least amount of mixing - the more you fold, the more air bubbles you pop and the flatter and denser your cake will be. But you don't want big pockets of egg white or flour in there, either. So just be careful.

12. Pour equal amounts of batter into each cake pan and bake for about 16-22 minutes, depending on the color of your pans (longer for light pans, and less for dark). Judge doneness based on the toothpick test (stick a toothpick in the middle, if it has no crumbs on it, it's done) or by poking the middle of the cake, which should readily spring back. It should also look like it's just starting to pull away from the sides of the pan.

13. When you remove the cakes from the oven, run a knife around the perimeter of the pan. Invert onto a plate, remove the parchment, and re-invert onto a cooling rack. Do the same with the other cake, and cool to room temperature. Don't ever try to frost or fill a warm cake.

14. Make the ganache: Heat the cream and agave over medium heat in a saucepan until simmering. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Cover and let sit for about 8 minutes, at which point the chocolate should have melted (if not, stir it over medium heat until it does).

15. Add vanilla and stir until smooth. Cool until slightly warmer than room temperature.

16. Make that cake: While the glaze is cooling, put one layer of the cake on a cardboard round or other decorating surface. To avoid making a mess, you can tuck strips of waxed paper underneath the cake around all sides for easy cleanup. Spread about 1 cup of the jam evenly over this layer, filling in the pits and potholes on the cake surface. No one will ever know...

17. Place dollops of the pastry cream around the cake layer over the jam and spread it until it makes an even, thick coating. You should use all of it. Carefully put the second cake layer in place, making sure it's centered and not lopsided.

18. Spread around the remaining jam on the top of the cake, all the way up to the edges. Run a spatula around the sides of the cake to clean up any leaking pastry cream or raspberry preserves. Consume this.

19. Pour on the glaze, making sure it completely covers the top and sides. It will cool much more rapidly once it's on the cake. Make pretty swirly designs with the back of a spoon. Before it cools completely, press in raspberries in some attractive pattern on top of the cake.

20. Refrigerate the cake until the glaze sets and it's ready to serve. Keep refrigerated, as the pastry cream will spoil otherwise and the cake will fall apart in warm conditions. Eat, eat! It's so good.