31 December 2008

Gallo Pinto con Plátanos Fritos




Oh, the life of a student is rife with lack of money and an even stronger lack of time. That is, perhaps, why I haven't updated in awhile - I haven't had time to cook anything. Or post anything. But we misses it, yes precious.

But there's always time for gallo pinto! This is the only dish I really took home with me from Costa Rica. It's breakfast done right. And really, it illustrates this blog perfectly. Rice and beans for every meal!

Now, I will not lay claim to its authenticity, but having spent a few months eating it every day for breakfast, I will say that it is prepared many different ways, and up to some interpretation by the cook. Other than the rice and beans, I think the most common ingredient in it is Lizano sauce, or "salsa lizano," which I never include for two reasons: 1) It's hard to find in Seattle (with the exception of a little Latino shop at Pike Place Market, but it's expensive there); and 2) I never really liked it much anyway. Some people put it on everything... like ketchup... but I'm not one of them. Bleh. Too sweet. Too strong.

The other common difference is that most places in Costa Rica will toss the beans in the pan before the rice, whereas I prefer to fry the rice first to get some texture and browning. But who's paying attention? I'm in the US now. Nobody here eats gallo pinto. Maybe I'll open up a food cart and sell it in little dixie cups. I think it would take off.

It's filling. It sits in your stomach and passes through your innards with the greatest of comfort and ease. And it tastes so good. Mmm, mm. Rice and beans.

If you're wondering, "gallo pinto" is pronounced, "guy'-o peen'-to," and means, "spotted rooster," in Spanish. In case you care.

Folks there usually serve it with fresh fruit (watermelon, canteloupe, mango, papaya, pineapple, grapes...), sometimes some kind of meat product (we don't need that here), sour cream (or mayonnaise, but why?), and often fried plantains. A plantain looks a lot like a banana, but it's bigger. A little more angular... and the end is pointier. Harder to peel, not that tasty raw. They grew free in the woods where I stayed in Costa Rica. Beautiful bunches of them. Cut off a bunch and hang it to ripen on the stalk. Plantains for everyone!

Once in awhile I find plantains at the store here and get them. Not too often, since they travel so far to get here, and they're rarely organic... I wish we could grow them fresh. That, and I just can't get them to taste the same as they do in Costa Rica. I fried them down there more than once, and they were lovely - sweet and lightly browned on the outside and moist on the inside. But here? Dry. Starchy. Chewy. Kind of like home fries that had been baked a little too long. Just not fun. I don't know if it's because they pick the plantains WAAAAAAAAAY before they should and they can never really develop, or if the ones they send up to the US are the rejects because we don't know the difference, or if the climate here is too dry... I don't know. I might never know.

But I made them anyway. They were OK. It doesn't really matter, if you have gallo pinto.


GALLO PINTO con PLÁTANOS FRITOS (guy'-o peen'-to con plah'-tah-noce free'-toce)
serves 2 generously

1 ripe (yellow) plantain
cooking oil
3/4 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
salt
1 1/2 tsp dried crumbled oregano
1 tsp cumin
1 cup cooked brown rice (or white rice if you want to forego a good source of fiber and protein - contact me if you want a tasty way to cook brown rice)
2/3 cup cooked black beans (or red beans)
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
~3 tbsp lime juice




1. Heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat. A well-seasoned cast iron skillet will be virtually nonstick, provide unparalleled browning, and hold heat well. Meanwhile, peel your plantain and cut off any dark spots on the flesh. It should be delicately creamy pinkish on the inside. You might need a knife to peel it - those guys can be tough!

2. Oil up your pan. You should have enough oil to generously coat the bottom of the skillet, or your plantains might burn. A burnt plantain is a little bit like burnt anything else. It just tastes like carbon, and nobody likes that. Cut your plantain into little diagonal rounds (just slice down at an angle) about 1/8" thick (absolutely no thicker, and no thinner than 1/16"). Too thick, and it won't cook through. Too thin, and it will be impossible to handle. Place them around the skillet on one side and watch them smile up at you.



3. Use a fork to flip them when they're brown on one side. Just keep peeking at them until they're ready. They should look less brown than this:



4. When the second side is done, put them on a plate to wait for the gallo pinto. If your pan needs a little more oil, add some now, but it doesn't have to be much. Dump in the onions and brown them a little in the pan, stirring them with some kind of non-plastic utensil (cast iron, with its superior heating powers, will melt plastic into your food). I use wood. It's pleasant.



When the onions look like that, you can add the garlic. Work fast, because you don't want the garlic to burn. It will most likely do so if and when you turn your back. Also add a pinch of salt (how much depends on whether you cooked your rice with salt, and how much salt is in the bean liquid), your oregano and cumin, and stir quite well. You should smell it, and it should smell good.

5. Add the rice. Mix it well with the onions and garlic, then spread it out to cover the pan bottom and leave it alone for a few minutes.If you keep messing with it, it will stick and make your pan difficult to clean.



You can take this time to chop your cilantro. Use more or less depending on how much you like it. I didn't like it at first, but now I'm addicted. Cilantro makes everything taste south-of-the-border.



6. Turn your rice after a couple of minutes. It should be browning a bit. Do this a few times to ensure even, light browning. When it's ready, it should look a little like this:



7. Add the beans. Spoon them in with a little liquid. Not too much. But some. You want to coat the rice so it's not hard on the teeth from the frying. Mix them in and leave it alone for a minute, to let the beans heat up. Turn it a time or two, but don't cook it very long or it will dry out the starchy bean liquid.



8. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the cilantro. Splash in some fresh lime juice (adjust to taste) and stir that in as well. Get it out of the pan and onto a plate as soon as possible, or the lime will degrade on the hot metal and just taste like something warm and sour and not fresh. Garnish with some more cilantro, and serve with your plantains and sour cream. ¡Buen provecho!



PROS: appetizing, filling, great source of protein and fiber, wonderful warm and savory way to start the day, deeeelicious!
CONS: plantains just aren't the same here in the USA


I should note that I don't ever measure anything in this recipe, I just sorta put down what I think I put in. So don't fret about measurements if you think it needs a little more of this or a little less of that. Taste it and see. That's the only way to make it to your liking! Also, I often put in some chopped up bell pepper with the onion. I didn't have it on hand, so I didn't put it in. It's more authentic, but honestly, I like it better without.

You can clean your cast iron pan by putting a little bit of cooking oil in it after all the food is out, scraping off anything that may have stuck with the utensil you were cooking with, and wiping the inside clean with a paper towel. It should look mildly shiny with no food bits. That's all - no water, no soap, no salt, no sand. Pretty easy.

26 August 2008

Gingered Sugar Cookies




Recently, I got this oven thermometer. Not that there was anything wrong with how my stuff was coming out, but you know, I wanted perfection. So I started using it... and lo and behold, it said my oven was 10 degrees too hot.

For the past eight? months since I got the thing, I've been baking stuff 10 degrees cooler, suffering cookies that spread too much, cakes that take 15 minutes longer than they should, and pie crusts that don't really brown.

I just figured it out. I happen to be slow.

The oven thermometer now lives next to the oven rather than in it. I baked cookies for the first time in a long time at the assigned temperature, and they came out NORMAL! Well, not just normal... but tasty. Tasty, and perfect. Mmm. Perfect cookies.


GINGERED SUGAR COOKIES
from Baking Illustrated by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine

2 cups flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 salt
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 cup butter (2 sticks), softened
1 cup sugar
1 tbsp light brown sugar
1 large egg
1 1/2 tsp vanilla
2 tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger



1. Preheat your oven to 375°F. Put the racks in the two middlest positions (so you can bake two sheets at once). Cover two cookie sheets with parchment paper. You could also grease them, but that's messy and annoying. Unless you have nonstick cookie sheets... in which case, you don't need to do anything. Except throw them out and get real ones.

2. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl and set it aside. Chuck the 1/2 cup sugar and ginger in a blender or food processor and whir away until it's all mixed and kinda looks like wet sand. Well, wet clear sand. Put it in a wide-mouthed bowl. It should look like this.



3. Cream the butter with the sugar and brown sugar for a few minutes until it gets kinda billowy, yet uniform... you'll know. Add the egg, vanilla, and crystallized ginger and beat some more, until it's smooth and creamy looking. Like this.



4. Add the dry ingredients and mix just until it's combined, but no longer. I don't need to tell you that the longer you beat flour and baking soda into something wet, the more the gluten develops in the flour (causing tough chewiness) and the more the bubblies are knocked right out of the baking powder, rendering it... rather useless. So be kind to your cookie dough.

5. Roll them into balls about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and coat them with the sugar. You should have 24. If you don't, well you're obviously useless at measuring. Place them 12 to a cookie sheet, spaced a couple inches apart. Flatten them to half their original height, using something flat, such as the bottom of a drinking glass.



6. Bake for 15-18 minutes, one sheet above the other, until the edges of the cookies are set and they're slightly golden brown. If you're a doting cookiewife (or whatever you are), you'd switch the baking sheets quickly halfway through baking and rotate them 180° to avoid oven hotspot damage. In other words: uneven baking. Uneven baking makes me cross. My cookies came out pretty perfect though.

I guess cookies can only really reflect their cookiewife.





PROS: soft, sweet, flavorful, round, have a nice gingery crisp exterior
CONS: not enough ginger...



I'm sorry I haven't been posting. But that's OK, because I'll venture a bet that no one's waiting up for it anyway. I've been baking, but usually I only have time to a) bake or b) blog... and if I blog, I won't have baked anything, because I wouldn't have had time, so the post would be dreadfully empty. If I bake, I get to eat something delicious. So there you are. But I sacrificed an hour of sleep tonight to tell you about last week's cookies... so feel honored.

Next up... cupcakes :-)

05 August 2008

Rundown




There was this place in the coastal town of Cahuita, Costa Rica called Restaurante Miss Edith. They made a dish they called "Rondon" (more commonly known as "rundown") with white fish and starchy vegetables. I ate it. It was delicious. More on Miss Edith's later, though.

Rundown is a Caribbean dish referring to coconut milk that's been cooked down until all the water evaporates and the custard separates from the oil. Other stuff is cooked into it at this point, like onions and thyme and chiles, maybe some fish... I don't know why it's called rundown. Actually, that's kind of low on my list of things that I care about.

Anyway, I wanted to make this dish that I remember eating... so from a photograph, my spotty memory, and a few online references, Robert and I concocted this.

Oh, and you might be able to use canned coconut milk, but... I'm sure it's inferior. Or maybe I just like doing things the hard way. No, I'm pretty sure mine is the right way. :)


RUNDOWN

2 large, fresh, mature coconuts full of water (you should hear lots of sloshing when you shake them)
water
3 lbs root/starchy vegetables (yuca, potato, green plantain, taro, carrot, etc), peeled and chopped into 1" chunks
1-2 lb filleted white fish (cod, rockfish/snapper, or mackerel)
1/4 cup lime juice
1 habañero
1 large yellow or red onion
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
4-5 sprigs fresh thyme
salt
pepper
2 tbsp lime juice



1. Break open the coconuts over a bowl (catch all that good coconut water!). This can be done by hitting them repeatedly with the back of a large knife along the equator. Be careful. Coconuts can be tough to crack elegantly. Strain the water through four layers of cheesecloth to get all the dirt and hairs out. It should look pleasant. Like this:



2. Now for the fun part... crack each coconut half into several pieces. Remove the whites from the shell. There will still be a hard skin over it - a vegetable peeler pulled toward your hand does the trick for removing it. Make sure you know how to use a vegetable peeler this way. Don't sue me if you shave off your skin.

3. Chop up all the white bits into manageable pieces for the blender, and chuck them in. You should blend in at least 4 batches - coconut is extremely fibrous and it will burn out your blender's motor if you're not careful. Add some of the coconut water to assist in blending (if you need more, just add regular water), and be patient. Once the coconut is all shredded by the blender, there should be a milky liquid in there. Surprise! It's coconut milk. Squeeze the shredded coconut, wrapped in cheesecloth, over a bowl. You should end up with some of this:



...and some of this:



Save the beautiful shredded coconut for something else. Dry it out in the toaster oven for easy storage, or freeze it. Once it's dried, you can mix it with brown sugar and toast it in a heavy skillet. Makes great ice cream topping. But that's neither here nor there.

4. You should have about 3 cups of coconut milk. Simmer it, uncovered, in a wide saute pan or wide saucepan for about an hour to an hour and a half. In the meantime, place the fish on a plate with the lime juice to sit until it's ready for the pan. Then prepare your starchy vegetables. Boil them for a good long while, until they're falling-apart soft. At this point, your coconut mixture should be almost ready.



5. Seed and mince the habañero. Wear gloves - I cannot stress this enough. This is a potent pepper with potent oil. If it gets on your hands, it is very tough to wash off and if you so much as think about touching your eyes, picking your nose, or licking your fingers, you will pay dearly. So just be careful.





6. Slice up the onion. Add this, along with the garlic, chile, and thyme, to the simmering coconut milk. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent. Season to taste with salt and pepper.



7. Dump in the boiled starchy vegetables, taking care to submerge as much as possible. Add the fish on top. If it is not in the liquid, make space for it. You just don't want it on the bottom of the pan, because then it just gets smushed by everything else.



8. Simmer the rundown with the fish in it for about 20 minutes, taking care that the fish is sumberged. This keeps it from toughening. Give it a shake or a gentle stir every so often to keep everything from scorching.



9. When the fish is tender and the liquid is thick, give it more lime juice. It's ready for eatin'. What a treat.





PROS: so Caribbean, so full of flavor and delicious...
CONS: well, if you don't like coconut... this isn't for you.


This is a reasonable approximation of what I remember eating at Miss Edith's. In any case, it's an awesome way to eat your fish.

31 July 2008

Black Bean Brownie Cake




Beans. Oh, the versatility.

If my two-month educational foray into the jungles of Costa Rica taught me nothing else, at least I walked away with this recipe. Thank you, Robin. Thank you, Rancho Mastatal. I already miss birthdays, all of us gathered around the community table... enjoying a hunk o' chocolate goodness.

It's chocolate cake, but it's... healthy. It's mostly eggs and beans, with a little coffee and some other stuff (like chocolate). You know, breakfast food. *shifty eyes*


BLACK BEAN BROWNIE CAKE
courtesy of Rancho Mastatal

1 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
6 oz bittersweet chocolate (75% cocoa content is good)
4 oz (1 stick) butter
1 tbsp finely ground coffee
1 tsp salt
1/8 tsp powdered chili
2 cups cooked black beans, drained and rinsed
4 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1/2-1 cup cacao nibs



1. Preheat the oven to 350 and grease a 9x13" cake pan. Then make a sugar syrup. I do this because in Costa Rica, the sugar we had was liquid (it was called "tapa dulce"). Basically, it was unrefined sugar that had not been evaporated. To simulate that... just mix the brown sugar, regular sugar, and water and simmer over medium-low heat for a couple of minutes. That should do it.



2. Chop up the chocolate and butter, and melt in the top of a double boiler. Add coffee, salt, and chili, mixing until smooth and melty. You can also use oil with fine results. I like butter because... it's so wholesome.



3. Make sure your beans are well-rinsed and drained, particularly if they come from a can. *gasp* I know you wouldn't do that, though. Black beans are great, but I've also used red beans with equally great results. You could probably use almost any kind of bean, really... Stick them in the food processor with the eggs and vanilla, and whir away. Within a minute or two, it should get nice and frothy and the beans should be totally obliterated. You might see skin specs. But that's it. Transfer to a large bowl.



4. Combine melted chocolate/butter with the sugar syrup, and pour a little into the bean mixture. Fold to incorporate and temper the eggs, if the chocolate and sugar is still hot. Gradually add the rest, folding the batter until mostly combined (a few light and dark streaks are fine.



5. Fold in the cacao nibs until evenly distributed. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake for 55 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean and it begins to recede from the sides of the pan. Cool in pan to room temperature. Enjoy as brownies with powdered sugar, or crumbled over ice cream, or however you want.





PROS: rich, moist, chocolatey, full of protein, flourless
CONS: a bit strong for some people, incredibly crumbly




And there you have it... my first update in a month. Hopefully I'll do the next one sooner rather than later.

26 June 2008

Dutch Potato Soup


I'm back! I'm here, home, and I survived Costa Rica.

Boy, do I have some interesting food to post about. I never knew rice and beans could be served so many times in a single day. Week, even. I think I consumed an average of 15 meals featuring rice and beans per week. Maybe more. And fried plantains? Oh boy. We United Statesians don't know what we're missing.

But I'm not here to talk about rice and beans. Not today. I just want to present to you, my delicious (albeit a little plain looking) soup. And tell you that I'm becoming more of a locavore! If there's one thing I learned abroad, it's that food doesn't have to come to you from 1000 miles away. So I've been haunting the farmer's markets, running around Puget Consumer's Co-Op with my little pad of recycled paper and a pen, jotting down prices and names of local producers.

So when my dad and his wife presented me with the Cafe Flora Cookbook, I was delighted - a cookbook from one of Seattle's own vegetarian restaurants. YAY! Seattle food. Local food.

I know, I know. Bear with me. I go on these kicks sometimes. You know, gluten-free, vegetarian, organic... local...

So I found an awesome-looking potato soup recipe in this book that used relatively few ingredients, was pretty cheap to make, and I substituted some things for what I could find that was available this time of year, and used what I already had on hand. It turned out quite yummy. Especially since I (sorta) made my own vegetable stock. Except it was a little too salty. But that's not the point.

DUTCH POTATO SOUP
from Cafe Flora Cookbook, at least mostly, and tailored to what I had available
2 tbsp olive oil
1 bunch (about 3 small) fresh bulb onions with the green part still there, thinly sliced
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 head fresh garlic, minced with greens removed
1 1/4 lb russet potatoes, sliced but not peeled
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tsp caraway seeds, toasted and ground
3/4 cup lager
1 cup heavy cream
6 oz smoked gouda, grated
salt
black pepper

1. Heat up your oil in the bottom of a stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions and salt. I used both the green and white parts from the little onions I had, and it worked out fine. It hurt my eyes less, too. The recipe calls for a medium yellow onion, but... I like my way. Saute this for about 10 minutes, until the onions turn translucent, and stir it frequently to keep them from browning. Or, if you're me, forget to stir them and have half of them browned and the other half crunchy and undercooked. It's really a matter of taste.





2. Add the garlic, all chopped up. It should smell really good right now. The garlic I found was fresh - not the kind with the dry papery outside. It was all usable, the skin and everything, it was firm and evenly hydrated. I couldn't have separated the cloves if I'd wanted to. Cook this for another minute.



3. Dump in the sliced potatoes and stock. You'll be lucky if your stock is as good as mine. Mine was pretty awesome. I made it with kale and carrots and the tops and hearts of celery and carrots and onion and garlic skins and fresh thyme and dried oregano and salt and pepper and a little paprika and tomato paste. But that's beside the point. You can just use one of those aseptic packages of Pacific vegetable broth. It's delicious. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, then cover and cook for 10 minutes, until the potatoes are soft. You should be feeling pretty good about yourself. At least I was.





4. Meanwhile, ready your food processor/blender and a separate container for the soup. When the potatoes have cooked, remove from the heat and let cool off for about 10 minutes with the lid off. When it is less hot, puree it in batches in your appliance of choice. Just don't fill it more than halfway, or it will start to leak. That's not really what we want. While it's blending, grate yourself some cheese.





5. Return the pureed soup to the heat, add the caraway seeds and beer, and bring back to a boil. Slowly stir in your heavy cream. And oh gee. I had some good heavy cream. Courtesy of Golden Glen Creamery... it was so rich and white and non-homogenized, and came in this adorable little glass bottle. It made me grin. Stir your concoction constantly until it comes to a simmer again.



6. Add cheese, a little at a time as you stir, until it melts completely. Season to taste. ¡Buen Provecho!





PROS: flavorful, rich, filling and warm
CONS: a tad bit fattening, plain-looking


So there we have it. Maybe my next post will have something to do with gallo pinto. Or a restaurant review. You'll just have to wait it out.

25 March 2008

Equinox Eggs


Another vernal equinox has come and gone, and the days are now longer than the nights. Here in the north, anyway. Mum and I dyed eggs... and this year, we did some experimenting with natural colors. Last year we used those little bottles of natural dye like "black currant juice concentrate" and "blueberry concentrate" and such. It merely stained our hands and kept our brown eggs brown, so... this year we did something different.

We got some tips out of The Joy of Cooking. We started with a pot of 3 cups red onion skins in a 3 cup mixture of canned red beet juice and water with 2 tbsp vinegar, brought to a boil and turned down to simmer for half an hour. We hoped this would make red.



We did the same with red cabbage in 3 cups of water plus 2 tbsp vinegar, to make blue:



...and spinach, etc. to make green:



...and we hard-boiled a dozen eggs according to the Cook's Illustrated method of covering them with an inch of water, bringing them to a boil, removing from the heat and covering the pan and letting them sit for 10 minutes, then putting them right into ice water to chill. It doesn't overboil them, which is nice.

The cabbage made a lovely deep purply blue color...



...and the onion skins/beet juice made a brick red liquid...



...and the spinach...



...made pond-water yellow. We strained the liquid into large mugs to dye the eggs in. We got about two cups of liquid for each... fits about two eggs comfortably. So we dropped in the eggs and let them sit in there for about 45 minutes... or something like that, anyway, and they came out looking gawgeous. We tied rubber bands around some of them to make pretty stripes. We'll definitely do this again in the future. Maybe not the spinach, though, since the eggs only got their natural spots accentuated. The blue eggs came out really cool, though. I love dying brown eggs.