17 March 2009

Biscuit Cassoulet




I've got to hand it to Isa and Terry. They sure know what they're doing. Go check out their book (well, one of them) right now.

One of these days I'll really start making my own recipes. Sure, I do that now, but only about once a month and I never blog about them. Maybe they're so delicious I just don't want people to know.

For now, though, I'll stick with this cassoulet. It's the second time I've made it - which is saying something, since I rarely make the same thing twice (unless it's my special lasagna, or cookies or something). It reminds me a lot of the pot-roasty, beef-stewy type home-cookin' that I used to love so much. Only, you know, without that pesky meat.

Just about everything in this dish you can find at the farmer's market in midwinter. The leeks, potatoes, carrots, and garlic are all from vendors at the University District Farmer's Market in Seattle. The flour for the biscuits was obtained from a vendor at the market until I dumped it on the floor and had to borrow my mom's AP flour (these things happen. I've learned to frown really hard for two minutes and then forget about them). The vegetable broth is homemade from veggie scraps I save during my cooking (I'll blog about that sometime).

I missed the onions by a month or two, so I had to get them from the store (poo), and the beans I could have gotten from one of the many dried bean vendors at the market but I forgot about it, and thus the bulk aisle once again comes to my aid. Frozen peas could have easily been obtained fresh in summer and then frozen at home, but I'm silly and don't think to do things like that most of the time. Buttermilk too, they sell at the market, but I'm never there early enough (it sells out fast) so it also came from the store. But the point is that I could have gotten it straight from the farmer. I think the only things you can't find at the market here are salt, pepper, cornstarch, leavening agents, and sustainable palm oil (non-hydrogenated shortening).

That said, if you're not trying to eat locally, all these things can also be found in the grocery store. It's just not nearly as fun to get them.

Oh, and this recipe can be vegan - but I used buttermilk for the biscuits instead of soy milk/vinegar because I had buttermilk in my refrigerator. But I didn't have any soy milk. So there you have it.


BISCUIT CASSOULET
adapted slightly from the "Leek and Bean Cassoulet with Biscuits" from Veganomicon by Isa Moscowitz and Terry Romero

CASSOULET
1 lb (3 smallish) purple potatoes, cut into cubes - about 3 cups (any small waxy potatoes will do, but these are so colorful)
2 tbsp cooking oil, olive or otherwise
1 lb carrots, peeled cut into pieces smaller than the potato cubes
1-2 cups chopped onion (I used yellow, but red would have been spectacular)
2 cups thinly sliced leeks (make sure you wash them really well, mud gets into places on a leek you've never even heard of)
3 cups vegetable stock
3 tbsp cornstarch or arrowroot powder
2-3 cloves garlic, pressed
1-2 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 tsp salt (or as needed)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup frozen peas
1 cup cooked navy beans, rinsed

BISCUITS
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup shortening (go natural, not carcinogenic)
1 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt



1. Put potatoes in a small pot of boiling salt water. Cook for 10-15 minutes until just done. Don't make them too soft, because they'll cook more later and you don't want them to fall apart. Or maybe you do, what do I know? Drain them once they're cooked and set them aside. They can sit at room temperature for awhile.



2. Heat a large (12 inch), ovenproof saute pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat (no higher, because your leeks will get mushy and your onions will burn). By ovenproof, I mean no nonstick coating, no plastic handle, no rubber anywhere, just all-metal. Add the oil, carrots, onion, and leeks.



Let these saute for awhile until the onions turn translucent and there's a little browning action. This should take about 10 minutes.

3. While that's cooking up, whisk the cornstarch into your vegetable stock. It's important that the vegetable stock is cool or cold when you do this, because cornstarch will clump up and be awful if you whisk it into something hot. You'd have little weird unidentifiable lumps in your stew, and nobody would ever eat at your house again. On another note, I used half cornstarch, half tapioca starch because I ran out of cornstarch. I don't recommend this. It won't thicken properly.

4. When the carrot mixture has achieved proper sauteedness, add the garlic, thyme, salt and pepper to the pan and stir it up to coat the rest of the vegetables. Only let that cook about a minute - you should smell the garlic but it shouldn't be anywhere near brown.



5. Heat the oven to 425°F. Add the cooked potatoes and the peas and dump in the stock (give the stock a quick whisk right before you dump it in). Mix it all up to be uniform.



Turn the heat up to medium high and bring to a simmer. Turn it back down and simmer for 7 minutes. Turn it off afterward and carefully stir in the beans.

6. In the meantime, whip up some biscuits. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or fork, cut in the shortening (toss it around and mash it a bit) until it is full of little lumps. You don't want it creamy-smooth, and you don't want large fatty bits either. Slowly pour in the buttermilk while you continue to mix it up with a fork or pastry cutter until everything is moistened and it's a little lumpy. Knead it up a few times with your hands to give it a little workout, and then you're ready to roll.

7. Ball up bits of dough (I made eight biscuits, but you could do 10 or 12) and drop them in the skillet over the cassoulet, spaced evenly apart.



8. Put the whole thing in the oven and keep it there for 15 minutes. The biscuits should be getting nice and golden. Take it out very carefully using doubled up potholders on the handle (don't forget that the handle will be hot). You might need two hands to do this without disaster, especially if you're using cast iron. Serve this puppy right away - make sure there's a biscuit in every bowl. Tada! Dinner.




PROS: easy to get ingredients, tasty, comforting, colorful, hot and full of goodness
CONS: well... it's not low-glycemic. full of lovely calories!

3 comments:

Christopher said...

Betsy:

I meant to post this to your entry about crab souffle because you mention the New Basics Cookbook. I went and pulled out my copy, which I’ve used many times over the years (Dad made a lot of recipes with it also). As usual, a bunch of recipes clipped from magazines and newspapers fell out. (Whenever you come across a recipe you like, clip it and place it in whatever cookbook is handy--it doesn’t matter where--so you can come across it years later and wonder why you clipped it, or if you’ve ever made it, and why you placed it in that particular spot in the cookbook. All the cookbooks I’ve inherited or bought at the used bookstore have weird recipes that fall out and tantalize and puzzle--Wonder Cake made with tomato soup, lard, allspice, etc. or So-and So’s lemon cake recipe written in shaky smudged unreadable pencil.) Anyway, this recipe fell out -- it always caught my eye when it fell out before, but I always put it back -- until this January, when I made it.

From Molly O’Neill, New Wrinkles on Dried Fruit
The New York Times Magazine, December 19, 1993

Chocolate Chestnut and Cherry Cake

1 pound bittersweet chocolate,
coarsely chopped
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup sweetened chestnut
puree
5 eggs, separated
1 cup dried cherries,
coarsely chopped
1/4 cup sugar
Whipped cream,
for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-inch springform pan and set aside. Place the chocolate and butter in a double boiler, over barely simmering water. Heat, stirring from time to time, until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in the cream and the chestnut puree.
Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and whisk until yolks have thickened and turned a pale yellow color. Spoon the chocolate mixture into the bowl with the yolks and whisk until smooth. Stir in the dried cherries.
Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, Gradually beat in the sugar. Stir 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten. Fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan.
Bake until the cake just springs back when touched in the center, 20 to 25 minutes. Place on a rack to cool completely. Cut into wedges and serve with softly whipped cream.
Yield: eight to ten servings.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

I had to go to a “Specialty” Food Store to get chestnut puree, which was unsweetened - I sweetened it with about 1 tsp. sugar. Not only was the chestnut puree $$$, it looked like Ken-L-Ration without the smell, and had no flavor. I had to buy way more than what I needed. I guess it serves as a binder--I’d like to know if there is something I could use as a substitute.

I bought the cherries at the “Specialty” store also. $$$$$. I’m sure you could substitute canned cherries, or better yet fresh, whenever they are in season (I always miss them here--I think they are in season for about a week).

My oven runs a little hot, so I was surprised when the cake was a bit soft in the center when I tested it about an hour after it came out of the oven. It was in for 25 mins. This was remedied by putting it in the refrigerator over night (and storing it there). It stiffened to what seemed the appropriate consistency.

All in all, this cake is definitely worth making. It is extremely rich. It satisfied Mom’s chocolate desires.

Your Uncle Chris

Glas said...

Bets -
I would have to agree with Chris about the recipes tucked into random cookbooks. I have had SO MANY of those, which I've now collected elsewhere all in one place. Your Biscuit Cassoulet looked and smelled awesome! :) And Uncle Chris' cake looks pretty good, too. Mmmmm!
Mum

Betsy said...

Chris - that sounds good! I've never made a flourless cake but the idea is quite appealing. All the yum without the gum. As they say. Or maybe they don't.

Anyway, I love chestnuts and cherries and chocolate and cake, so I'll give it a shot. I'm pretty sure Whole Foods has chestnut puree, and Washington state grows a lot of cherries, so that probably won't be a big deal to find around here. We have dried, frozen, and canned this time of year, and in summer we'll have PLENTY of fresh. I'll blog about it when I make it.

Good tip about the recipe clippings... although I'm not sure that Wonder Cake would be something I'd care to try.